Hare

This is awesome! I love all the shiny trophies =o Thank you Digital!

Thank you for explaining this, Digital! I just used it and it works like a charm! I was only using the has_collected_interest and not both with the timestamp. Now it's preventing double clicks. I went with a timestamp for has_collected_interest with the date method Nate told me about to eliminate crons, not sure if that's the best way to go in this case, but it's workng great. There's also a 'you have 23 hours and 59 minutes until you can collect interest' message now. Thank you Nate and PaulSonny, too! see how checking for duplicate data would work for forums and will keep that in mind! I did something similar with UNIQUE columns to prevent duplicate inserts, it worked out great last time. Yeah most people won't know to turn off Javascript. I remember back in the day on Neopets, people discovered that they could disable Javascript and would 'blow up' forum topics by spamming the submit button. lol Then they fixed it.

What is the best way to prevent double clicking on a $_POST submit form on browser games? For example, a player collecting interest from the bank. I have a code that uses a timestamp to update itself when clicked, but it can still be clicked rapidly in succession and rake up extra interest regardless of the timestamp. I tried Post/Redirect/Get method and saving tokens in a session, but for some reason neither of these worked for me. I could just be doing them incorrectly. I also tried Javascript, but that's easy to get around (just turn off JS). So I'm wondering whether I'm just doing it wrong and should keep trying, or if these methods actually aren't viable for petsite/SIM features like banks? What is the best method to prevent double clicking and resubmission that someone in my situation should learn for their game?

Glad to see this is being worked towards a resolution.

False. You love cats.

This is a tutorial I made for anyone who is looking to get a better understanding of how to draw realistic rabbits. It can also be seen at http://leporidae.org/howtodraw SECTION #1: BASIC SHAPES What This Guide is For Rabbits are difficult for a lot of people to draw. Not only are they fuzzy and squishy, but they can change shape when they sit, stretch, or jump. A rabbit's anatomy can defined in one moment, then utterly shapeless and blob-like in another. There are also many misconceptions about how rabbits look and how they're depicted in illustrations and media—everything from button noses to food pink pads. It's surprisingly hard to find realistic depictions of rabbits in movies, television, books, and even in places where fictional rabbits are supposed to look like the real thing. There's nothing wrong with stylaizing your bunnies, of course! We just want to make sure you know what features are stalized and which are real. This tutorial is designed to help artists understand what's real, what's misconception, and what proper rabbit anatomy should look like. We have a few drawings and photographs to help demonstrate examples, and written information to help describe and guide anyone looking to draw realistic bunnies! Traditional Tutorial The first section of this guide is dedicated to traditional drawing tutorials (that's right, the ones with the weird shapes). As you can see, the body of a rabbit tends to look like a thick slinky that is slightly leaning to one side. The haunches (rear end) rest on the ground with the hocks (feet) and tail. The belly of a rabbit in a natural sitting/standing position may or may not have daylight underneathe depending on the breed of rabbit or its posture. Rabbit heads tend to be an oval-like shape that sits close to the body. When you look at the frontview of a rabbit's face, the chin sits on the point of an upside down V shape where the cheeks extend. Over the eyes are a brow that can be sketched out to the base of the ears if you want to detail the fur. Rabbits have whiskers on the brows as well (like cats), but they're not always visible (especially in rex furred breeds). SECTION #2: DO'S AND DON'TS Debunking Rabbit Anatomy Myths Oftentimes when we look at drawings of rabbits, especially cartoons, we see a lot of features that are inaccurate or missing in real rabbit anatomy: the button nose and foot pads to name a couple. Real rabbits, no matter what breed or species, have neither button noses nor foot pads like those found on cats and dogs. Keep in mind that We encourage all means of artistic expression and appreciate different styles and concepts! There is no wrong way to draw a bunny, but there is a right way to draw a realistic bunny, which is what this guide is for. We're going to start by going over the basics of what any rabbit should look like and maybe debunk a few common anatomical myths. The Button Nose One of the common anatomical stereotypes we see in rabbits is the button nose. It may twitch like a bunny nose and be adorable, but a real rabbit's nose looks much different (and is never wet). A real rabbit's nose looks like a slit with pink underneathe. The fur above the slit of their nose may be slightly pink (especially if the rabbit has white fur) because the fur gets very short and fine towards their nose. When a rabbit's nose twitches, it opens, showing little pink nostrils. The twitching of a rabbit's nose is that slit moving open and closed, allowing the rabbit to expand its nostrils as it sniffs around and breathes. Foot Pads Contrary to popular depictions, rabbits shouldn't have foot pads like a cat or dog. The bottoms of their feet are completely covered in coarse fur. They should be, anyway! It's important for bunnies to have healthy thick fur on the bottoms of their feet because the skin underneathe is very thin and delicate. They don't develop tough callouses to protect them like humans and some other animals. While a rabbit foot may appear to have have the pink 'foot pads' we see in some drawings if the fur is missing, that means the rabbit is likely suffering from worn feet and/or infection. A healthy rabbit foot should be fully furred with no pink on the bottom. The fur on the bottoms of a rabbit's feet starts out the same color as the rabbit's overall fur color as babies, then turns into a beige color as they get older (and might become tinted to match the color of the terrain they're used to walking on—rabbits that spend a lot of time on the grass will develop a green tint on their feet). Dewclaws Rabbits have dewclaws located on the front feet, similar to dogs. Declaws (pictured above) are on the inner sides of each foot and slightly further down that the opposite toe (similar to human thumbs). Rabbits have exactly five toes on the front feet (including dewclaw) and four toes on the back feet. Cottonball Tail Bunny tails are often drawn as perfectly round balls of fluff, you might even think there's no tail bones in there at all. In reality, rabbit tails have bones in them just like other animals, and they aren't round. If you were to shave a rabbit's tail, it would look short and skinny (but might be surprisingly long considering how short they look with fur). They are more like deer tails. The position of the tail is also commonly misrepresented. Unlike cats or dogs, a bunnit's tail wraps all the way down between the hind legs where the rabbit's rear is. Rabbits naturally sit on their tails, which bend around the curvature of their hindquarters. Rabbits may wiggle their tails from side to side when they dig or want to show off, and they show off the undersides of their tails (which may be almost white in some colors) when they kick their back legs into the air. Frontal Eyes It's common to humanize all animals in drawings, or make them look more like animals we're more familiar with (like cats and dogs), and there's certainly nothing wrong with that, but real rabbits have very different looking eyes from humans, cats, or dogs. The most important thing to know about rabbit eyes is that they face laterally on the head, allowing rabbits to see in almost every direction. They can even see directly behind them, but funny enought, they have a blind spot right in front of their nose! Therefore, bunny eyes face out on each side of the head and brow placement is further up above them. When a rabbit faces you directly, you are seeing the side of the eyes and the brows may dip slightly into a forehead. When the rabbit looks at you from the side, its eyes are facing you directly. When a rabbit has its head facing you at an angle, depending on the exact angle and how broad the bunny's head is, you might not see the other eye at all. Note that some breeds (like Netherland Dwarfs) might have such broad heads that you can't even see their eyes from the front! Human eyes also have the white parts of them visible at all times, but in rabbits (and many other animals), the whites of the eyes show when they are looking off in another direction (or when they are scared), showing the side of their eyeball that we wouldn't normally see. In a normal position, you will see just the iris and pupil. Rabbit eyes also look very different from human eyes when closed. They don't have an indented area around the eye and don't have eyebrows. You can see the bulge where their eyeballs are, or it might be shrouded in fluff (this is why hairless rabbits might look creepy to some people). Rabbits also have a third eyelid (called a nictitating membbrane) that may be visible in the corner of their eye, but you should probably avoid drawing this unless you are working on a higher detailed picture of a large breed (they tend to be more visible on large breeds, especially giants like Flemish Giants and English Lops). SECTION #3: More Than Skin Deep Bare Bones One of the reaons people have a difficult time drawing rabbits is because they aee fluffy, squishy, and (a bit) amorphous. Their body structure isn't as visible compared to that of a dog or horse. On a horse, you can see the muscles and shape of the hip, legs, chest, and neck, but you won't see much or any muscle on a furry rabbit. On a rabbit, you might have trouble knowing just where the hip starts under all the fur and skin, how thick their necks are, or whether they even have necks. Rabbits are masters at shape-shifting—they're plump balls of fuzz one moment, and then long and dartlike with big back legs the next. Above are a couple of pictures roughly outlining where the bones on a rabbit are located. The spine is an important frame of reference that can help guide you in shaping up a rabbit. When a rabbit sits normally (slightly bunched up), its spine is arched all the way to the ground, curving upward at the end into the tail. Rabbits can move their tails so they don't curve up, though. They can be straight or go straight down (usually when the rabbit is digging or stretching out on all fours to look around). Just like the tail, their spine can bend dramatically to become straight or even bending in the opposite direction from the natural arch (though not nearly as dramatically). A rabbit's spine may be straight or opposite-bending when laying down, jumping, or standing on their hind legs. You can use the spine as a frame of reference for where other parts might be. Obviously you have the skull at one end. At the other end, the bones in the back legs start at the base of the tail. If you're interested in learning more about rabbit anatomy, we recommend the Rabbit Dissection Manual by Bruce D. Wingerd. It contains more information and detailed pictures.

Glad I could be of assistance =D

Great synopsis! I'll look into posting some tutorials. It's nice to see what the community wants and what direction to go in to support the site.

Thank you, Anoua, Nate and Digital! And for your formal explanation of the isset. Am also interested in knowing what yout code does, Boltgreywing!

Definitely never be suckered into sending payment via friend/family. That's a lot of money to lose. I hope you can get this sorted out.

Ooh great idea! I nominate Nate for being a nice and helpful person with interesting and engaging posts. Overall a great member to have on the forum!

No problem! I tested it out and no login is needed. =D The download button is on the right side of the page (below the ad and above the 'more like' section in this screenshot). Should say PSD on the download button.

I use Sublime =D Might have to try out Visual Studio.

I make my own when I'm working on new sites, I don't know how to use frameworks anyway. A friend of mine did our layout for my site though (I didn't know how back then).

Thanks! Good to know =D I added the calrification to my first post. Good luck on the game!

Ooh, yeah! If you're selling your game I would just make sure the new owner knows that these assets are stock and might be found on other sites. I just mean direct sales. You're welcome and glad I could help!

I had posted some free assets a while ago on VPL, and thought I'd repost there on here for anyone who wants to use them. =D No credit is needed, but if you want to credit me, feel free to say they are from Haywire on leporidae.org or Hare on TGL. You can use these for personal or commercial use (doesn't have to be petsites), just as long as you don't try to sell them directly or take them down from others using them. So if you use them, then sell the site or other thing they are used on, just make sure the new owner knows that these are free stock image assets. They are free for anyone to use. Also feel free to change what they are, I just named them what they were originally purposed for, but if they look like something else, go for it! If you feel like telling me what you used them for, I'm always curious! All should have downloadable PSDs unless otherwise stated, check the links. http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/Package-of-Meat-593981453 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/Rabbit-Plush-593981250 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/Town-593981027 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/Paint-Can-593980318 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/Plastic-Egg-Stock-Art-593979826 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Shed-530267195 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Paper3-529613090 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Paper2-529612750 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Book3-529611940 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Cowboyhat-529611487 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Bottle-529610756 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Crystals-529610367 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-STock-Paper-529610035 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Book2-529609569 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Book-529608898 http://tororoplz.deviantart.com/art/VPL-Stock-Egg-529607465

Good idea!

Thanks! I was expecting it to be more when I went to check it out. Even when I'm dirt broke I could go and buy one. =D I wondered more details about this too. It said it has to be the adoptable you're customizing. I know Subeta does custom pets like this too, and there's a huge thing of rules around them to make sure people don't take advantage and use customizations to like, make their pet look like some limited special other pet. Not sure what Digital wants to do but was thinking about that.

Awesome =D Nice to see these.

Anyone who got a custom adoptable here on TGL, show them off! I'd love to see them! =D I just made my first one, he was my first adoptable, too. These are addicting. I think I'll have to get more later when I'm not totally broke lol

Would love to hear about this from others because either I'm doing something wrong or I lucked out. Most of the rabbit community already existed. I go to shows and conventions, socialize on Facebook, and sell things. I made some business cards for the game to hand out and stick in envelopes when people buy from me. Most of our players joined because they saw the game on Facebook or got a card in the mail/in person or from word of mouth. I guess it's like the VPL community has migrated over to TGL. I think communities come together when there's a common interest.

Thanks! yeah, the isset is if the 'Apply Changes' button that edits everything' gets clicked. The notes are like a description on this game, we also have special 'note codes' players can put on their rabbits. You can put 'nosell' in the notes for example, and the selling option will not show up. That helps people avoid accidentally selling the rabbits they want to keep. I don't know anything about ruby on rails or C++ and would love to see anything you have.

Also wanted to add this little editor. I wanted a faster way of editing rabbits, something where you don't have to click submit on every rabbit. With this, players can give different names to a bunch of rabbits, and also set different notes, sales prices, and stud prices. All they have to do is click the submit once and it all gets done. Any fields you don't edit will be unchanged since they are all value=$whatevers_already_in_database. Not the full code but it's just arrays and a foreach loop. Very basic I'm sure, I'm just stupidly happy because it's faster than phpmyadmin and sequel pro and I've found so many uses for editing multiple columns and rows all at once. One odd quirk I found is that it won't update the prices properly when I use number inputs, I had to use text inputs (which seems to work fine since the data types are INT). That's why those ones sanitized. I don't consider myself a real programmer, I apologize for my stupid exciteability over basic things. =D I'd love to see some people who know what they're doing post some projects =D

I don't know much about programming, but have a lot of fun working on the layering system for a rabbit SIM in Imagemagick. It combines Mendelian genetics with hidden modifiers. So you have your genes and alleles, and then you have subtle changes in brightness, saturation, etc. The English Spot breed has a distinctive pattern, but there's also endless variation in it. This is just a snippet of code. I coded a whited out copy of the base layer that goes over any potential color layers. Then the markings are in layers with DSTOUT, causing the pattern to be cut out of the white layer. There are 5 integer columns in the database for each rabbit that determine color patterns. I use a modulus to cycle through them (if there's 3 possible nose markings, it goes through 0, 1, 2 then cycles). I also use the modulus so I can reuse the same column data without making certain combinations impossible. If I want to use the same data for spine marking and side markings, I just have to make sure to use different prime numbers for the modulus'. When I did the math, it was something like 20,000 possible marking combinations with the English Spot pattern, only using about 130 KB of image files. I'm really happy with that. It's not including all of the color possibilities for the non-white parts. You can get totally different things with the genes and alleles, too. Like rainbow and inverse. The inverse is shown in the code above, it just uses DSTIN instead of DSTOUT on all the markings. The rainbows have a hue modifier too so it cycles through loads of different colors (there's about 5 rainbow 'patterns.' There's a lot of cool things I've also learned about rabbit colors in the process of using imagemagick. Now every time I see bunnies, I think of them in terms of layering... Hello orange bunny. Hello DSTOUT orange bunny. And hello to you too, #ffffff version of DSTOUT orange bunny.